Vedi Napoli e Poi Muori*

(*See Naples and Die…)

Twenty-three years since I last tred the cobblestones of bella Napoli and in the intervening years much has changed — and much hasn’t.  In town for business, there was little time to sight see over the course of a two day session, but the little I was able to partake reminded me of the timelessness of the city.

In some repsects it was actually cleaner than I recall (air quality-wise; Sidewalks? Same, same…).  The heavy brown smog that had enveloped the city in liberty ports past was not present, nor was the heavy smell of diesel exhaust. While the immediate waterfront area was notably cleaner — a walk back up through the narrow, winding streets showed the Naples I’d first come across as a 3C Midshipman on summer cruise back in the summer of ’75.  As then and subsequent late-night dashes from AFSOUTH to fleet landing proved, taxis were, and still are a “sporting” way of getting about, but at least now you needn’t worry about the holes in the floorboards.  An Alfa Romeo parade and car show in piazza San Marco, Vesuvius shrouded in cloud and early evening strolls along via Partenope were memorable.  The best part though was getting off the beaten path and finding that little restaurant that was always filled with the locals and enjoying a good evening with good conversation, good food and good friends…and is there not a better way to spend a late spring eve in Naples?